![]() Delete GIT2LD.bin from the card using your PC andħ. Reconnect the camera to your computer and wait few seconds until you can chose Mass Storage from camera menuĦ. After GIT2LD.bin is copied to the card disconnect the camera from computerĥ. Copy just the GIT2LD.bin on the root of the cardĤ. Insert card in camera and connect it to computer using USB cableģ. 32GB card formatted by camera or on computer as FAT32Ģ. Improved: No frame drop in 1080P 60fps at low light condition.ġ. Improved: Default setting time is same as firmware released time.ĩ. Added: Support turn off screen via mode/menu buttonĨ. Added: Support mode/menu button to enable quick functionħ. Added: New Wi-Fi command for time-lapse, self-timer, etc.Ħ. Added: Update settings from configuration fileģ. Locked is no good for a race track since half the time you are going into the sun and half the time you are going into shadow, the exposure has to change.2. If you really want to see inside and outside at the same time then WDR should help, but you will probably get a better video with it off. ![]() Spot will only expose for the road, the upside down CarDVR will try to include the trees and front door pillars so might give a better compromise which will often allow you to see your dashboard as well as outside and will mean you don't need to aim it up from it's current position. Only problem is that you want to expose for the top of the image so you would have to mount the camera upside down (or set the "ImageRotation" option) and end up with an upside down video, but if you are going to process the video on your computer anyway then that may not be a big issue. I would aim the camera up a bit and use spot, but there is another option with the latest 1.6 firmware (only in beta at present) - set the metering to "CarDVR" which exposes for the bottom half of the image. Ah, use Low contrast.Ĭlick to expand.Locked is no good for a race track since half the time you are going into the sun and half the time you are going into shadow, the exposure has to change. IMO it will look far better with a standard lens with Gyro ON. (Probably in the future with a movable metering zone this will be easily achieved) The risk is that the locked exposure ends being too slow or too fast and.and then the tones that are out of reach will apprear over or underexposed. Doing this you can keep your current framing so your shoulder and steeering will appear in the frame. If the locked exposure is good outside will look nice, maybe inside will be darker but is one thing or another. Then put the camera in the desired mounting position, aim it through the wiendshield to outside and check the screen, when the desired luminosity appears in the Git2 screen press the side button to lock those parameters and record with them (of course tigh the setup bolts in that moment). ![]() Locked Exposure: Enter to the options and adjust the function "lock exposure & white balance" to the "side button". Your framing will change and your shoulder and steering will not appear much on the frame (depending on what metering you finally use).Ģ. So, point the camera in a way that the most center part of the image is the windshield. Doing this you'll have OK exposure for the exterior and will adjust automatically while moving. Of course you'll get darker tones in those part that are being ignored but is a tradeoff. Doing this the Git2 will "ignore" what is not in the most center part so the exposure will be OK for the tones in that measured area. Autoexposure: The camera should point to the exterior through the windshield using spot metering (or even "center"). To expose the road/outside properly you have to choices:ġ. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |